Head to Carlow, they said. Be grand, they said.
It’s not as though this particular Her.ie writer had anything against Carlow, per say, but I didn’t know anything about the county and couldn’t recall ever being there. No better reason, then, to hit the road for a day and night and discover some of its delights.
Less than twenty-four hours later, I was headed back for the capital bemoaning how short the stay was and eagerly planning a return visit with an equally impressed other half.
In the depths of winter Himself and I finished up work on a Friday evening and made our way through the bucketing rain and horrendous traffic to hit the motorway, headed south to Borris.
Just under ninety minutes later, we reached our destination, The Step House Hotel. From the outside, the Step House looks like a (very impressive) pub/restaurant; one that just happens to offer accommodation too. In fact, the Georgian building seems several times larger inside than you might expect. This was the first of several surprises.
We arrived as the windows were dolled up for Christmas, with all the care and finesse of the displays you may see in the finest department stores. A warm welcome awaited us, and we were led to a bedroom that offered an instant balm to weary souls after a long week. There are twenty bedrooms at the Step House Hotel, each one offering comfort in spades and again, surprisingly roomy. Some offer terraces, others boast Juliet balconies and spectacular views of the neighbouring countryside. As you’re surrounded by Mount Leinster, the Blackstairs and the Barrow Valley, there is something to see in every direction.
Flatscreen TVs, marble furnishings, fluffy pillows and a power shower that could knock you out… we couldn’t find a fault in the room if we tried, but there was no rest to be had just yet as dinner awaited us in The Cellar.
Situated in the kitchens of the original old house, The Cellar is a series of interconnected rooms with archways and vaulted ceilings, a lovely bar and doors out into the pretty gardens (not used on a night like this, but we can imagine that they’re very much appreciated during the spring and summer evenings!).
The Step House is a family run business, so it’s lucky for the family that one of their ranks just happens to be one of the finest young chefs in the country. Alan Foley, formerly of Peacock Alley, Sheen Falls Lodge and Chapter One, knows everything there is to know about the best in local and organic food, and he uses said knowledge to tremendous effect for a dining experience that offers all the sophistication of the country’s finest restaurants, in the warmest of settings.
Much of the menu is sourced locally to the restaurant, including the escargot grown by one of the hotel’s waitresses, lamb bought whole from neighbouring farmers and a partnership with Goresbridge Community Garden who supply herbs and vegetables, seeds and fruits.
At dinner we had the pleasure of sitting beside Aisleen, another member of the Coady family who own this fabulous establishment. Aisleen runs the sales and marketing element of the business and her enthusiasm for the hotel goes some way towards explaining the impressive welcome and the big plans in store.
We ate like kings, and the silence at the long table can only be taken as an indication of the quality of the meal, as we were by no means in the company of shy people!
After a sneak peek at the stunning ballroom (which seats up to 180 guests and is hugely popular for local weddings), a sound night’s sleep and an equally delicious breakfast, it was time to head out and see what Borris has to offer.
Our choice of activity was a canoeing trip on the River Barrow Trail. Our genial hosts for this trip were the good folks at www.gowiththeflow.ie and despite the fact that it was cold enough for our breath to form clouds in front of us, everyone in the group bravely donned a wetsuit and hit the water. We weren’t long warming up, from a combination of adrenaline and laughter.
Though it truly was the depth of winter, we weren’t the only foolhardy souls out on the Barrow, we were barely emerging after our two hour stint when we spotted a hen party making their way towards the water. In my humble opinion, this beats a spa treatment any day for a fun group activity.
Back to the Step House, then, to take full advantage of those amazing power showers once more before making our way to the 1808 bar for some more food for the road. A curried butternut squash soup and delicious open sandwiches on homemade brown bread awaited, so it was with full stomachs and full hearts we waved the Step House adieu.
It has taken some time to spread the word about this place, always the way when you want to keep something a little special to yourself! Visit, and you’ll see why…
Overnight stays available from €55 per person midweek bed and breakfast and €90 per person midweek with breakfast and one evening meal.
Step House Hotel, Borris, Co. Carlow
+353 (0) 599773209
The Step House also offer package that includes canoeing with Go with the Flow:
River Barrow Canoeing Adventure Package
Description: Enjoy two nights B&B, dinner for two in our 1808 Bar on one evening of your choice and a guided River Barrow Trail with renowned Go With the Flow River Adventures instructer Charlie Horan.
From: €170 per person sharing
